A pair of 18k gold multi-gem and diamond "Pneu" earrings with four pairs of interchangeable quartz gemstones. - image-1
A pair of 18k gold multi-gem and diamond "Pneu" earrings with four pairs of interchangeable quartz gemstones. - image-2
A pair of 18k gold multi-gem and diamond "Pneu" earrings with four pairs of interchangeable quartz gemstones. - image-3
A pair of 18k gold multi-gem and diamond "Pneu" earrings with four pairs of interchangeable quartz gemstones. - image-1A pair of 18k gold multi-gem and diamond "Pneu" earrings with four pairs of interchangeable quartz gemstones. - image-2A pair of 18k gold multi-gem and diamond "Pneu" earrings with four pairs of interchangeable quartz gemstones. - image-3

Lot 736 Dα

A pair of 18k gold multi-gem and diamond "Pneu" earrings with four pairs of interchangeable quartz gemstones.

Auction 1229 - overview Cologne
16.11.2023, 16:00 - Jewellery and Watches
Estimate: 5.000 € - 8.000 €
Result: 11.340 € (incl. premium)

A pair of 18k gold multi-gem and diamond "Pneu" earrings with four pairs of interchangeable quartz gemstones.

Multiple-part earrings with foliate motifs pavé set with 100 brilliant-cut diamonds (in total c. 1.56 ct, H/I, vs) and onyx, the clip studs with citrine cabochons (c. 7.82 x 7.60 mm). The screw mountings on the reverse can be removed to swap out the four interchangable gemstone boutons of green amethyst, smoky quartz, onyx and Madeira citrine (diameter 20.06 mm). Hallmarks: Italian fineness 750, origin mark, "Marina B.", maker's mark "MB", numbered C1567. H 5 cm. Total weight (without interchangable stones) 42.11 g.
Marina B., Milan, 1985.

The iconic Pneu earrings from the late 1970s are the result of Marina Bulgari's search for a way to connect gemstones without lining them up or stringing them, which she considered too mundane. The centrally drilled coloured stone boutons are mounted to rotate in a similar way to the tyres on a bicycle.

Literature

Cf. Bennett/Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, The 20th Century, 2021, p. 270; Weir- de la Rochefoucault, Women Jewellery Designers, 2017, p. 159.